Famous people who visit Morelia usually stay at one of the city’s better hotels, places like the <a Villa Montaña, Casa de la Loma, or for the ultimate in secluded privacy — La Casa de las Rosas. Morelia has no shortage of hotels of style and quality.

Last night a man who was once the topic of an article in Vanity Fair didn’t stay at one of those hotels. He spent the night at the home of one of his followers only blocks away from my house in one of the oldest neighborhoods of Morelia. Once known as Rafael Sebastian Guillen, the man whose public image was striking, evocative and serious slipped into the neighborhood unnoticed and without fanfare, the story buried in the 20th page of the morning paper. Clad in mufti, the military, government agents and security trucks patrolled the area in total stealth.

But then this is the kind of neighborhood where BMWs share the narrow streets with old cars and burros, the kind of place where the governor as well as the former mayor of Mexico City pass without a second glance.

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